Hi,
I'm intending to get a remap once Skoda decide what's happening over the diesel emissions scandal (received the letter to say a software update is required but when?) In the mean time, my Yeti's air filter is due a change so wondering if it's worth going for a K&N filter and what effect that may have on a remap, if any? It's a 2012 170CR Yeti.
Most likely go for a Shark remap next time there's a GB or they have a sale .... fingers crossed 
Comments welcomed ..... one obvious advantage of the K&N filter is being able to clean and reuse it - and advantage with the number of miles I do and regularly using the car on dusty gravel roads.
Cheers,
Andrew
Hello,
I'm new to Skoda and bought a 2011 2.0 tdi Cr Scout. I know this subject has been thrashed but I want to fit HID's to the dipped beam (H7) without burning the wiper motor out!! I've done a search with the VCDS but nothing that I can see relating to being able to change the setting to "without shutters" Am I missing something? Thanks.
Hey guys
Has anyone figured out yet if VCDS can have my Octavia III VRS autolock when I walk away from the car (I've got KESSY)?
Cheers
I had an update issue with my HEX-NET this week, chatted with RT on their forum and it was decided there was an issue with my unit, this was on Tuesday evening 2200hrs.
Replacement HEX-NET (supplied obviously FOC) arrived today... that alone is impressive, more so when you bear in mind RT are in USA !!
10/10 for Uwe and his team 
Charge Pressure Control - What's going in on here?
Car Octavia 2 1.9 PD BXE
Still trying to work out why engine missing/surging and poor/non starting when hot
Was looking at the idea that Engine note should change when you disconnect MAP sensor - No discernable change in engine note when disconnected or reconnected.
Looking in more detail I looked at Group 11 - Charge Pressure Control, while also looking at vacuum in line from solenoid valve block to turbo actuator. Gauge was connected with a 'T' so function of vacuum line should not be disturbed.
So as table below describes, ran at idle then disconnected MAP sensor then reconnected.
What struck me was that Boost pressure at idle is less than specified - aware that they will not always match perfectly but I presume this deviation is outwith normal limits.
Then although disconnecting MAP sensor changed CPDC, vacuum to turbo actuator and actual boost pressure, reconnecting MAP sensor made no difference to readings (stayed as they were when it was disconnected). Switching engine off then on again caused the readings to go back to almost exactly initial values.
I am thinking this is not quite right and hopeful there are some clues in here, but don't quite know what to make of it. Any ideas appreciated.
Thanks
VCDS RPM is not continuous - goes up in steps . Presume engine speed must have been right on boundary between these two values as it was alternating between 819 and 840
Hi guys, My Cousin has a MK1 Fabia 54plate which has the ABS light come on the instrument cluster. I have run a scan see below:
I would be very grateful if you can shed some light on the problem.
Can anyone help since i had a shark stage 1 remap initially it was great but now its very sluggish off the line. once the cars moving it pulls ok.
its a bit embarrassing being beaten off the line by lorries and Vans. Scan below has a few faults hopefully you will be able to diagnose. I know the miltek
exhaust has a small blow just after the cat which was picked up on the MOT but other than that it runs fine just down on power in first and second.
Im not suggesting that the remap has anything to do with the fault but i thought it worth mentioning just incase it could have a knock on effect on something else.
Appologies if the question has been asked before and I've not spotted it.
In an ideal world we would all have a VCDS diagnostic tucked away at the back of the garage but personally I can't stretch to one knowing it will probably only get used once in a blue moon. So the question is, is it worth buying a cheapie (
say, sub £40) just to read hard faults? Or would you be better spending the money at a local garage and getting it read with a decent bit of kit?
So knowing next to nothing about vehicle diagnostics will "Faults" always make something light up on the instrument panel or are some silent and simply stored in memory until scanned?
I have a slight issue with my Polo 1.2TSi in that the tick-over has become slightly erratic/unsteady. Car runs fine otherwise) I was just wondering if that is the sort of issue that would flag a fault code on a cheap & cheerful reader?
One that caught my eye. Ideally something that would read real-time data would be useful. Just guessing but I suspect I have a MAP fault or temp transponder.
Hi Guys. Looking for some information if you please:
We have just ordered a new (It will be a MY 2017 as it is a factory order) Yeti SE Outdoor with DSG to replace our almost six year old yeti. Shortly after we purchased our Yeti in 2010 (MY 2011 - Pre FL) we had some VCDS changes done. Namely: (1) Large MPH display (change of country etc. (2) Cornering Fog Lights and (3) Needle Sweep.
My question. Does anyone here just happen to have worked on any MY 2016 Yeti's and have a list of what is available via VCDS? With some vehicle controllers etc having been changed since we purchased our first Yeti, I am wondering if the three items already mentioned are still possible and if any new ones are available, such as rear lights on with DRLs - Second Fog Light - CC display etc etc.
I managed to get the second Fog lamp working on our current vehicle by means of a home made transistorised circuit, so no Can-Bus problems! and the dealer activated the rear light option for us. I would dearly like to be able to do all these things with VCDS if it's possible though.
I did do some fairly comprehensive searching but could not find anything before troubling you and writing here. But no luck. Anyway, many thanks in anticipation............... Tony
Hello! Hoping you can help.
I have a MK2 Fabia vRS, which, engine/performance wise, currently has an APR Stage 1, a Forge Intercooler and a GFB DV+.
I'm looking at a couple of other mods for my car now and wanted to know a little bit about them.
Firstly, something like this:
http://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/milltek/milltek-downpipe-options-skoda-fabia-vrs-1-4tsi/
What difference would a mod like that make to power and noise? Obviously i'd like to increase both (noise only to a certain extent) - are there cheaper options than miltek? I would like a sports cat/to keep the cat, i don't want to go de-cat and have trouble with MOT's etc. I know some people just remove the centre silencer is it? to increase the noise, but i was thinking about any possible performance increases too.
Secondly, are forge/samco boost and coolant hoses worth having? Or is it more of a visual thing to spruce up the engine bay?
In regards to handling, my car has got the Bilstein B12 kit and a H&R RARB. Would this front anti roll bar (FARB?) compliment things and improve handling?
http://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/h-r/h-r-front-anti-roll-bar-20mm-fabia/
Thanks for any comments, suggestions and advice
I was researching the web for reasonable brakes upgrade for my Fabia.
I already have DS2500 pads, ATE power discs rotors, braided goodrich lines.
Found the solution that popular from VW owners, change calipers to Audi S2 girling 60. I want to use 15 inch forged racing wheels for my trackday's so girling 60 will fit (Other calipers mod are for 17 inch rims).
Are Girling 60 which are 2 piston calipers better than stock RS calipers? Will they fit bolt on stock hub, will the pad fit and hoses? On photos they are almost identical.
Girling 60
My setup.
This stems from another post I have, in thinking about the replies however I am boiling it down to one, perhaps simpler, question.
Why is my requested boost so high at idle?
Requested boost 1091.4 mbar
Actual boost 999.6 mbar.
I now understand that both figures should be very close and also be close to atmospheric.
Obviously atmospheric will vary with conditions and height - I am close to sea level
Octavia 2 1.9 PD BXE
New MAF Valve
New MAP Valve
New Turbo
New Solenoid valve block
New EGR valve
Vacuum lines checked with vacuum pump
Thanks
Here's the Swedish VCDS importer product page:
I'm no dealer nor am I buying it for providing services for a profit. If I happen to be able to help others fine but my priority is having access to ALL functionalities of a MY2017 VW car first. Then if other older models are supported great but not at an extra cost.
So I'm guessing it's either HEX-USB, Micro-CAN or the most expensive Al-USB+CAN but what are the differences and which ones will fit my purpose with the minimum cost?
